It is a pretty simple rule. If it has threads, you either put grease on them, or thread locking compound. Never install a threaded fastner without one or the other. Just like in my example above, this rule is critical in areas of your bicycle that see a lot of road grime, dirt, or worse. If I hadn’t greased those split shell eccentric bottom bracket bolts, I may not have had a very easy time getting them loose, or worse yet, they may have gotten frozen up in there.

Which do you use and when? Well grease is never wrong, really, but there are some parts that should have thread locking compound on them. Brake stud bolts are a good example of this. Even some bottom brackets come with a bit of thread locking compound on their threads. (Some folks grease theirs, others swear by thread locking compound.) Most threads can get by with just a light coating of grease on the threads.

A word of caution concerning thread locking compounds: Make sure you use a “mild” thread locking compound that is meant for fasteners that need to be removed. There are really aggressive thread locking compounds available that will freeze your parts in place for eternity, so be careful and read the lable first!

Take this advice and you will have a much easier time removing old parts, adjusting your bike, and keeping it creak free.

This is a term that has been very commonly used, fallen out of the mountain biker’s lexicon, and returned once again. You can largely thank those freak-a-zoid big wheeled 29″ers for that. I won’t go off on that path today, just know that this term is being used again and many folks are too young or new to the sport to remember it.

So just what is “suspension corrected” and why should you care? Well, let’s take a closer look….

Note this image above of a Raleigh XXIX 29″er. Look closely at the area where the fork arches over the tire. Not much room there, is there? This indicates a non-suspension corrected fork and geometry.

Contrast this redline Monocog with the Raleigh. See the “air space” above the front tire and below the fork crown? That indicates a suspension corrected fork and geometry.
So, what does this mean? It means that the Redline is designed to accept a suspension fork swap for the stock rigid one. The Ralegh, not so much. Not that you couldn’t do that to the Raleigh, its just that it wouldn’t handle anything close to how it does with the rigid, stock fork.

Why?

Well, that can be a complicated answer, but for this discussion, we’ll keep it simple by saying that a suspension corrected fork/suspension fork is longer than a rigid, non-corrected fork. The geometry of the Raleigh gets all changed up when you put a suspension fork on it, and the personality of the bike totally changes. Is that bad? Well, it is if you loved the bike as it was, but wanted some relief from the bumps. This situation might arise when you get into vintage hardtails that were never designed for suspension forks, or had suspension forks with minimal travel.

Don’t even ask about rigid incorrect forks, that’s on a whole different level!

With the news that 2009 bicycle prices were going to be significantly higher, I was left wondering how much it might cost now for someone to get into mountain biking, and 29″ers in particular. Of course, it never has been really cheap. Mountain bikes, all terrain bikes, or what ever you want to call them, have always been a bit pricey. At least what I like to call “real mountain bikes”.

And maybe that is the problem. Just what is a “real mountain bike” anyway? I mean, some folks are “mountain biking” on department store rigs, right? Well, for the sake of this discussion we will assume that the equipment must be serviceable, durable, and have a reasonable level of high performance off road. A bike that could be expected to give years of service with basic maintenance. The ability to fit at least two inch wide tires is also a prerequisite.

Okay, so what do you suppose a bike like that costs? $400.00? $500.00? Somewhere around there? I’m going to say that with today’s future pricing in mind, you are looking at $500.00 and up.

That’s a lot of cabbage.

Especially for those that these bikes are aimed at: the first time buyer/novice cyclist. Don’t bother talking accessories. That will make the price even higher. Before I go on, I get that mountain biking is an equipment intensive sport. However; if we want to continue to grow the sport, (and I think that by all of the trail advocacy efforts I see, it is fair to assume that we do), we need to re-examine pricing and just what an “entry level” mountain bike should/could be. Here are a few suggestions and ideas to that end.

Make It Basic: First time riders are not “tech intensive” for the most part. Usually you are talking about someone that is concerned about durability, price, and having fun. A decent frame, a drive train that lasts and doesn’t need to be fiddled with, and tough wheels. What would be so wrong with this: Develop an all aluminum seven speed drive train. Make it like the old STX RC stuff maybe, (although that had a bit of steel in it here and there), and get rid of the front suspension. Give it linear pull brakes. Give it a decent, tough frame. These days it seems aluminum wears well, but for this project, I would like to see a steel frame and fork. Give the customer a single speed option.

I know some companies are doing this already. It just needs to be given a wider audience.

Make It Versatile: Make the bike not just an all terrain bike. Make it a commuter ready bike. Sell it with skinny tires on it right off the floor. Rack mounts, fender mounts, a place for a kickstand. Again, I know versions of this have been and are out there, but the drive train usually isn’t up to snuff, well………because what I am talking about doesn’t exist! Not from Shimano or SRAM. That said, I know Marin did the Hamilton single speed in this vein and by all accounts I’ve heard, they sold well. (They also had a geared version, as well.)

Make It Upgradeable: Sell this “basic all terrain” bike, but give the customer an “upgrade” option. Sort of a “good, better, best” set of packages that could be bolted on at purchase by the bike shop. Or at least a model that could be upgraded into a full on mountain bike hard tail at some point. Include disc brake tabs, suspension corrected geometry, decent handling traits. If it is the single speed bike, give it a derailleur hangar too.

Those are my thoughts. Would it be enough to get the price down? Would any company be willing to manufacture this “generic bike”? Could we ever hope to get a really nice seven speed drive train from Shimano or SRAM? That is a tall order and those are questions I don’t have answers for. My guess is that you would say I am a dreamer and there is no way this would work.

Who knows. I can dream at least!

Below you see brake housing, or compression housing.?? The metal is spun tightly almost like a slinky underneath the outter plastic casing.?? Brake housing is available mostly in 5mm as brake cables are mostly thicker than shifter cables.

Below is shifter housing.?? Shifter housing is compressionless to allow a better shift.?? In a pinch you can use brake housing, and brake housing used to be the only type of housing for many years (years and years ago.)?? Shifter housing normally comes in 4mm or 5mm.?? I prefer 5mm unless it is a teflon coated system.

The event was the Mountain Bike Hall of Fame induction ceremony of Travis Brown. As presenters Greg Herbold and John Tomac spoke, many “old” mountain biking slang terms were being bandied about while a befuddled Tim Grahl, (Blue Collar Mountain Biking founder and Crooked Cog Network owner) looked at me and said, “Yard sale?” Well, the explanantions had to wait until afterwards, but that was one of those “priceless” moments I don’t think I’ll ever quite forget. The thing is, Tim was a new mountain biker, and so, why would he know what that meant? Thus these posts.

Okay, so….back to the matter at hand! Yard sale is a term that was most likely pinched or transferred over from skiing. You know, when somebody crashes on a ski slope, and crashes good, parts are flying everywhere. A pole here, gloves there, skis flying down the hill, a hat, and a body, of course. To onlookers, the scattered accoutrement looked much like a “yard sale”. Thus the term came to be used whenever someone crashed spectacularly on the slopes.

Well, many skiers were mountain bikers in the summer months. The lingo was transferred over and voila! “Yard sale” became an ingrained term amongst early mountain bikers. Now you know!

Smooth can mean a lot of things, so I’m going to break it down into a couple of critically important areas for easier digestion.

Riding Skills: This is probably the first thing one thinks of when we talk about “smooth” in terms of cycling. Smooth pedaling, smooth handling, and smooth moves can all fit into this category. Here are a few things you should focus on when thinking of riding with smoothness.

Taking the bumps while seated is a recipe for parts failure, not to mention rider discomfort. Learn to anticipate your bikes approach to bumps and raise yourself off the saddle slightly. Keep loose with bent legs and slightly bent arms. Let the bike “float” over the obstacle beneath you by allowing the arms and legs to articulate at the joints when the bike rolls over the bump. This will prevent sudden forces from being exerted on the rear wheel especially, and may save you from crashing some day! This goes for your pavement riding too.

Pedaling smooth is another thing you can do to alleviate problems down the road. A “mashing” style is hard on a bicycle, so learn to “spin” more. One of the things I tell customers in the shop I work at is to concentrate on spinning the cranks at least 60-90 times a minute. (This is known as “cadence” in cycling circles.) A faster spin will help prevent you from trying to push “too hard a gear” which leads to excess stresses being placed on your bicycle and its components. A smooth pedaler will have drive train parts and a bicycle that lasts far longer than an ordinary cyclist will.

Mechanical Skills: Believe it or not, it also pays to be smooth when you are taking care of your bicycle. A heavy hand is not often required to repair and maintain a bicycle. Here are a couple of quick tips that may make your cycling more enjoyable, or even safer.

Learn to use the quick release properly. This is one of the most misunderstood components in cycling. It has been misused, leading to broken parts, crashes, lawsuits, and even death! It’s just totally crazy and unecessary. If you are not sure how to properly use a quick release skewer, then make a bee line to your nearest cycling purveyor and ask how to do it correctly. It will be a lot smoother ride if you do!

Another area that is often bunged up regarding mechanic work on a bicycle is fasteners. I’m talking about axle nuts, Allen head bolts, Phillips head screws, and other fasteners found throughout a bicycle. Rule #1- Do not force anything together! If you can not thread a fastener together easily with your fingers- STOP! There is something wrong. Generally the wrong angle is being attempted to align the part, or perhaps you are trying to install a left hand thread to a right handed one. (There are a couple of instances where this comes into play, most commonly with pedals.) Perhaps the threads are damaged, or the fastener rounded off. Whatever it is, it is best to stop and get it figured out before the damage is irreparable.

Added to this is Rule #2: Always use the correct tool for the job! Using a screw driver to take off a tire? Not smooth! Using a tire lever to remove a tire? Smooth! Using no tools to remove your tire? Now that is Zen smoothness! (Admittedly, that is an advanced skill!) Using tools correct for the job at hand is a great way to save yourself grief and keep parts running smoothly much longer. No tools, or limited tools? Either use a local mechanic or purchase your own tools and learn how to use them correctly. It is a big investment up front, but learning to be your own “wrench” is a skill that will pay for itself rather quickly. Very smooth!

This is certainly not an exhaustive look at cycling smoothness,but it should lead you to some money saving ideas that will enhance your cycling experience. Learn smoothness and you will go a lot further up the trail without trouble!

Many of the tools that were new this year I hope to order soon to get into my collection.?? The single speed tool from Park, the “Trixie” fixie tool from Pedro’s, the cog holder from Pedro or the Y-wrench with torx bits on the three ends.?? All amazing.?? Once the become available online I will post more information up.

The economy isn’t in the greatest shape, ( a huge understatement, I know!) and bicycle prices at the retail level are up for 2009. These two things will make used bikes, (or they already have in many areas) a hot commodity. What do you look for in a used bicycle, especially a used mountain bike that may have had a hard life? Well, here are a few quick things you can look for when you go shopping for a used steed.

Size Is King: In my opinion, the size of the bike has to be right, or it just doesn’t make sense to get it. A competent shop will agree and should help you determine what size bike you should be on. Buying privately? Don’t be tempted by a great deal if it looks like it mightnot be the right size. Check into it first before you make the leap!

Look For The Obvious: It only takes a minute to see just what kind of life the used bike you are thinking about has led. Look at the drive train- the chain, chain rings, and cassette/free wheel. See any rust? How about grease? Does it look really dry? Is there a lot of dust and grime in the nooks and crannies of the gears and bottom bracket area? These things can lead you to figure out what the bike was doing, ( or not, as the case may be) for its life before you. Greasy parts, or greasy dirt still clinging to hard to wipe places may indicate that the drive train is either very worn, or worn out. Dust and “dry” looking components may be a sign of a bike that was hardly ridden, or of a bike that was never lubricated. Be careful! Of course, rusty parts generally mean that the bike is in poor shape, and if the frame is steel, it may have a rusty problem inside just waiting to come out and bite you!

Then spin the wheels. Look at the rim/tire interface. See any wobbly motion there? Is the wheel out of true, or out of round in places. Especially focus on the rear wheel. It usually gets the worst of it. Of course, a wobbly, out of true, out of round wheel means future issues and ones that will pop up sooner than later! My favorite thing is when you hear a faint “tick-tick” as you turn the front wheel slowly. This usually indicates that there isn’t any grease left in the hubs.

Old Components: Generally speaking, one should be wary of the following things, unless you are quite confident in your mtb history, or have a superior mechanical acumen. Things like old front shocks, bikes with cantilever brakes, Sun Tour drive train components, and skin wall knobbies. Bikes with thumb shifters, Rapid Fire “push-push” type shifters, or anything with Sun Tour X-Press shifting. These indicate a bicycle that is pretty old, and unless you want to mess with doing some mechanical overhauls/part replacements, these are best left in the used rack. However; if you are one of those that likes tinkering, these can be gems in the rough. Just be very carefull!

Buying used can be rewarding and can get you a rig that was once out of reach economically at a crazy cheap price. It can also lead to your becoming a mechanic, or worse, a vintage bicycle collector! (Just kiddng!) At any rate, you will be doing your self a service, and saving another bike from going to the dump. Just be careful, and always ask advice if you are not sure about what you are getting into.

Have fun and keep on riding!

No, this post is about how that term came to be related to mountain biking. To be sure, it still is about pain! Now some of you might be thinking, “Ah, isn’t this the same thing as a face plant?” Well, it is and then again, it isn’t. It is sort of like how all squares are rectangles, but not all rectangles are squares.

A true “lawn dart” is a direct spike of one’s body head first into the dirt/rocks/or whatever your soil type might be. It usually happens so fast that flailing arms, efforts to try to alter the flight path, or even any sort of “expletive deleted” doesn’t have time to occur. It is probably the worst type of “endo” that you can endure. (Well, that is if you endure it.) Oh yeah, speaking of “endo”, that is a term that can cover all sorts of crashes. It refers specifically to “end over end”, which mountain bikers turned into, (or borrowed, I am not sure of the origin here) “endo”. A “Lawn Dart” is therefore a type of “endo”.

A “face plant” is like a “lawn dart”, but isn’t as sudden or catastophic. It too is a type of “endo”.

There…..now you know!

Lawn Dart: It is pretty rare, actually, and let us be thankful that it is!

This works best in a bike stand, but you can do this as long as you can figure out a way to get your rear wheel off the ground so that it spins and you can have both hands free. Step #1 Shift the bike into its lowest gear, (unless it is Rapid Rise, then reverse this) while turning the crank by hand. Now stop cranking and stop the rear wheel with your brake.

Step #2: With the rear wheel stopped and your hand off that crank, use the shift lever and select the highest gear. (Again, reverse this for Rapid Rise) Your cable should get very slack, like it is in the photo above. It is very important not to rotate the crank at this point!

Step #3: You should now be able to remove the cable through the slot on the cable stop. This will allow you to slide the housing back and forth on the cable a bit. I always start out with the rear section of housing coming out of the derailleur, as it usually is the most contaminated section. (See picture below) Especially so if your cables are routed on the top tube.

Step #4: Using your preferred elixir of slipperyness, drop a few precious drops onto the exposed cable and then with a back and forth motion, move the housing across that area you lubed. Depending on what you are using, you can also try running some lube right down into the exposed end of the housing. (I like the fine straw drip apllicators for this technique) You might notice that there is some rusty or blackish residue coming out onto the cable as you push the housing back and forth. Wipe this clean, re-apply lube, and repeat the process until you notice that the cable looks pretty free of residue, besides lube. In extreme cases, you will need to replace the cable and housing to really fix the problem. In the end, the cable should feel as if it slides with much less effort through the housing section you are working with.

Step #5: After you are satisfied that you have the cable lubed and clean, replace the housing back into its stops making sure that they are firmly seated. At this point you can move on to the next section of housing and repeat Steps #3 and #4, or you can continue to the next step if you are finished.

Step #6: If you are sure you are done, you can now turn the crank which will drop the derailleur down, (or up on Rapid Rise) to the gear you selected at the beginning of this exercise. If the chain doesn’t drop all the way to the smallest cog, just go through the gears a few times while hand cranking and the cables should re-seat themselves. If you are still having trouble getting all of your gears at this point, double check to make sure you replaced the housings into the cable stops correctly. Usually there isn’t any trouble with this method.

In the end, you should notice that it requires far less effort to initiate shifts. This technique should work on most modern bikes, but there are some older bikes, some department store rigs, and some road bikes that this trick won’t work on. It also will not work on bikes with full housing runs from shifter to derailluer.

Finally, if you have a down tube route to your derailleur cables, (many road bikes and older mountain bikes are this way) don’t forget to clean and lube that plastic guide under your bottom bracket shell!