Now with the wheels trued, lets check on that wheel bearing adjustment. Keep in mind that we determined whether or not we needed adjustments here back in the Diagnosis phase. (Click here for Diagnosis)

To make wheel bearing adjustments on a typical wheel, first remove the wheel from the bike. Then let’s take a look at the axle.

Usually on traditional wheel axle/bearing set ups there are two threaded parts on the axle visible to the eye. (Note: If you have rubber end caps on each side of the axle, carefully pry them off to reveal the threaded parts.) In the example above, my wrench is on the flats of the inner threaded part known as the “cone” or bearing race. It is adjustable by turning the “cone” on the axle with a “cone” wrench, as shown above, which is a thin wrench made especially for this task. Before one can adjust the “cone”, you must loosen the locking nut, or “jamb nut” that is tightened against the cone. (Note: Typically cones have only two wrench flats to interface with the cone wrench. Typically front wheels are 13mm and rear wheel cones are typically 15mm, but this isn’t always a hard and fast rule. Check your cone wrench size carefully. )

Another view of the cone wrench on the cone wrench flats.

Here we have the cone wrench on the locking nut as well.

Now to loosen the lock nut, you can use the appropriate cone wrench, (Usually, but not always, a seventeen millimeter wrench.) or you can use an open end wrench, box end wrench, or even an adjustable wrench if you are very carefull. It is much easier if you align the wrenches as shown above to achieve the best leverage. (See Make Leverage Your Friend for more.) Squeeze the wrenches inwards towards each other and the lock nut should pop loose for you. Back it off about half a turn while holding that cone wrench on the cone stationary.(A tip: Reach through the spokes from the left with your left hand to make it easier. That is, if you are right handed!)

Now you have the lock nut loose, don’t let go of that wrench on the cone! Just keep it stationary. Reach over the wheel with the right hand and using the same wrench you used to loosen the lock nut, tighten the lock nut on the other side slightly. (Assuming a loose condition for the wheel bearing here.) Now come back over with the same wrench- (Still not moving your left hand or the wrench it is holding) and re-tighten the lock nut you loosened originally. Check the axle with your fingers on each side to see if you can “rock it” or feel any looseness. Maybe you can still feel a slight “knock” when you do this. With a quick release axle, a very slight amount of looseness is okay, since the quick release compresses the axle slightly. However; you may need to repeat the procedure again.

If you get the bearing too tight, and you can feel that it is difficult to turn the axle, or if it feels “indexed” as you turn it, go back and do the procedure again. However; when you reach the part where you are using the wrench for the lock nut to adjust the bearing, you would loosen that lock nut on the side opposite where you are holding the cone wrench stationary, not tighten it, as we did at first.

Just keep in mind a couple of things here. First, the lock nut wrench does all the work in this procedure. The wrench on the cone actually does adjust the bearings, but you never do move that wrench in the procedure. Secondly, you may have to do this several time before you reach a satisfactory adjustment. It’s okay! Just don’t give up till you get there.