The Used Bike Lot: Getting More For Less
October 27th, 2008 by Guitar TedI work in a retail setting at a bicycle shop and lately I have been noticing something. Our used bicycle selection is pretty tight! It isn’t uncommon for bicycle shops to sell used bikes and several shops even specialize in it. So, the shop I work at may not be an indication of any trends, or a great example of aything on a grand scale. However; I’ll wager that used bikes are getting snapped up at an increasing rate, or will be in the near future.
The economy isn’t in the greatest shape, ( a huge understatement, I know!) and bicycle prices at the retail level are up for 2009. These two things will make used bikes, (or they already have in many areas) a hot commodity. What do you look for in a used bicycle, especially a used mountain bike that may have had a hard life? Well, here are a few quick things you can look for when you go shopping for a used steed.
Size Is King: In my opinion, the size of the bike has to be right, or it just doesn’t make sense to get it. A competent shop will agree and should help you determine what size bike you should be on. Buying privately? Don’t be tempted by a great deal if it looks like it mightnot be the right size. Check into it first before you make the leap!
Look For The Obvious: It only takes a minute to see just what kind of life the used bike you are thinking about has led. Look at the drive train- the chain, chain rings, and cassette/free wheel. See any rust? How about grease? Does it look really dry? Is there a lot of dust and grime in the nooks and crannies of the gears and bottom bracket area? These things can lead you to figure out what the bike was doing, ( or not, as the case may be) for its life before you. Greasy parts, or greasy dirt still clinging to hard to wipe places may indicate that the drive train is either very worn, or worn out. Dust and “dry” looking components may be a sign of a bike that was hardly ridden, or of a bike that was never lubricated. Be careful! Of course, rusty parts generally mean that the bike is in poor shape, and if the frame is steel, it may have a rusty problem inside just waiting to come out and bite you!
Then spin the wheels. Look at the rim/tire interface. See any wobbly motion there? Is the wheel out of true, or out of round in places. Especially focus on the rear wheel. It usually gets the worst of it. Of course, a wobbly, out of true, out of round wheel means future issues and ones that will pop up sooner than later! My favorite thing is when you hear a faint “tick-tick” as you turn the front wheel slowly. This usually indicates that there isn’t any grease left in the hubs.
Old Components: Generally speaking, one should be wary of the following things, unless you are quite confident in your mtb history, or have a superior mechanical acumen. Things like old front shocks, bikes with cantilever brakes, Sun Tour drive train components, and skin wall knobbies. Bikes with thumb shifters, Rapid Fire “push-push” type shifters, or anything with Sun Tour X-Press shifting. These indicate a bicycle that is pretty old, and unless you want to mess with doing some mechanical overhauls/part replacements, these are best left in the used rack. However; if you are one of those that likes tinkering, these can be gems in the rough. Just be very carefull!
Buying used can be rewarding and can get you a rig that was once out of reach economically at a crazy cheap price. It can also lead to your becoming a mechanic, or worse, a vintage bicycle collector! (Just kiddng!) At any rate, you will be doing your self a service, and saving another bike from going to the dump. Just be careful, and always ask advice if you are not sure about what you are getting into.
Have fun and keep on riding!





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The best shifting bike I ever owned was a Bianchi Grizzly with Sun Tour XC Pro thumbshifters. Shifts were faster & quieter than anything Shimano produced. The second best is my current 1×8, which is running a Deore 7-speed thumb shifter and a first-gen 105 RD shifting 8-speed indexed. It, too shifts cleanly & quickly, it’s just not as quiet as the Grizzly.
Nice post.
I recently purchase two used mountain bikes for me and my wife. We live in a bicycle hotbed (Austin) so finding a good bike at a good price took some time but I think we did fairly well. I found a Raleigh M80 (about 3 years old), disc brakes and all, in nearly perfect shape for $200 and a Specialized Hard Rock (about 4 years old) in really good shape for $140. If I were to have purchased them new they would have cost over $1000.
That’s blue collar. Keep up the good work.
Dave
Lots of sweet steel frames from the 90’s are out there…geometry is fairly modern, some 1-1/8″ headtubes for easy upgrade. I just turned a “Jetta” trek into a sweet single speed. Also have my eye on a ‘91 stumpjumper frame.
I second the comment about size. I’ve gotten pretty good at eyeing up pictures on ebay to judge frame size. The key is to use the wheels as reference…they’re always 26″ (ignore 29″ers for now), so you can judge by proportion what kind of standover, etc the frame has.
Rental bikes can be a good deal as well. On the one hand they are sometimes used hard, but on the other hand good ones are well maintained. My wife recently talked me into buying the bikes we rented over the summer when they were retired in September and while they were a little banged up, a one season Trek Fuel Ex8 bike for $1500 is a great deal. Admittedly, we put some money into them right away, but pedals, seats and tires are something we would have bought even when they were brand new.