The cleaning of a bicycles drive train is essential to get the longest serviceable life from your drive train components. Here are some ideas to help get you started in a career as a Gunk Fighter!

Some Definition, Please! Some may wonder what exactly is “the bicycle’s drive train”, so let us start there. I consider any thing necessary to move the bicycle’s rear wheel forward a part of the drive train. Well, except the person riding it. I’ll leave the cleaning of that part up to you! The parts I do include are the following: chain, cassette/ freewheel, crank set, and pedals. Also, I include the front and rear derailleur. Although; it could be argued that those are not “necessary” to drive the rear wheel. However; I am the Surly Mechanic, and I say that they are part of the drive train.

Gunk Fighting Tools

The handy thing to have around is a parts washer. Like that’s going to happen at your place anytime soon! The resourceful Gunk Fighter will find other ways to clean, no doubt. Much of what needs to be done can be accomplished without stripping a single part from your steed. So, put away the credit card, and listen up!

The single most effective tool you can own is a repair stand. Barring that, having some way to hang the bike from the saddle, and handlebar works well. Least effective is the children’s technique of upside down on the handlebars and saddle. An array of stiff bristled brushes, in a variety of shapes to get into tight places is necessary. Take into consideration the finish of your bicycle when choosing brushes. Make sure that they are stiff enough to withstand some abuse, but not so stiff as to scratch the finish on your bicycle. You will also want to collect some soft, tough rags made out of a thinner material. Old t-shirts work great, terry cloth towels, not so great. An old bucket to store everything in can double as a wash bucket. Finally, you may want to include an old sponge.

The Secret Sauce

Every home mechanic has their favorite solution for cleaning drive train parts. A careful consideration of what exactly you are cleaning off of your drive train is wise. Some gunk is not created equal to other gunk! Be aware! Sometimes all you will need is a soapy solution made from dish soap. Other times, an unknown variety of spooge will rear its ugly little head. In that case, a more volatile cleanser will be required. I am not a fan of petroleum based cleansers or other chemically based solutions. They can be harmful to your skin, the environment, and even to some bicycle parts! My personal favorite is some sort of citrus based cleaner, or even some common household cleaners, like Formula 409. Whatever you choose, make sure you are in a well ventilated area, wear safety glasses, and maybe some rubber gloves. If you don’t- well, don’t come crying to me! I warned you!

Apply the Elbow Grease

Now it is time to roll up your sleeves and get to work! Using a stiff bristled brush, try knocking out any accumulated gunk from in between the chains links, the derailleur plates, and the cogs. If the gunk is especially dry and sticky, use your cleaner to soften it up. Be careful of the floor! You may want to place an old blanket, or rags underneath your work. After the major chunks have been removed, you may now want to put away the brushes and start with a rag. I like to soak down the chain with cleaner. Then I hold the rag around the chain at about midpoint, between the lower jockey pulley and the crank. Then I use my free hand to rotate the crank backwards. With the rag in hand, I apply light pressure to the chain side plates. Then I make the chain pass between my thumb and forefinger, much like it would through the jockey wheels of a derailleur. This helps to clean the rollers between the chain side plates. Care must be taken not to get your rag caught up into the crank! Repeat this procedure until your chain is reasonably clean. Rags can also be soaked in cleaner, and the passed through tighter places to clean where fingers can’t reach. Sometimes stuffing a rag into a tighter place and then poking it through with a flat blade screwdriver is effective. Be creative! Finish the job off by cleaning the rest of your bike with soapy water. Rinse and re-lube, and you’re done!

What if I’m Obsessive/ Compulsive?

Well, I am no psychiatrist, just a surly mechanic with a penchant for guitars. Can’t help you there! However; if you are desirous of a more complete cleaning experience, then step this way. One upgrade from the no parts removed cleaning plan is to remove that pesky chain. It’s always in the way! You must possess a competent knowledge of the use of a chain breaking tool to do this. Of course, actually owning your own chain tool is very helpful, as well. Don’t even ask to borrow mine! Rear wheel removal is good. You may even want to go as far as removing the rear derailleur, and cranks. This is not absolutely necessary, nor advisable, especially if you are not comfortable with mechanics of bicycle repair. Double especially if you don’t own the tools. I’m trying to keep this on the low budget for all of you! You really should have a chain tool, though. Now, with the chain removed, grab an old water bottle. One you never, ever will drink from again. Fill it about one third full of chain cleaner. Citrus stuff works best. Drop your chain in, close the lid, and make like James Bond’s bartender. Shaken, not stirred, baby! A good three to five minutes does it for most chains. Open the lid to the water bottle turned parts cleaner, and fish out the chain with an old coat hangar. Folding the chain in half, grasp one end and whip the inside of an old card board box like it was a wicked stepchild! Watch as dirty cleanser is knocked from every crevasse. Reverse ends of chain and repeat. There, all better now? Not so angry? Good! Take the rear wheel, and lay it down so that the cog set is facing you. Take a rag soaked in cleaner, and run the edge of the rag in between a pair of cogs. Now, with a hand on each end of the rag, run the edge of the rag back and forth between the cogs. See how the gunk retreats! Repeat as necessary between each set of cogs. Using the rag technique, a similar result can be attained with the cranks. These steps will yield a little better result than the no parts removed plan, described above. Chain replacement must be done carefully to insure that the drive train functions correctly, and that the chain doesn’t break. One thing that I should note: Shimano does not recommend the breaking of a chain once it has been installed. Funny that they should also sell chain installation pins. Hmmmm.

Do We Have To Do It Again?

Familiar question? Sorry, I only fix bicycles. The frequency of cleaning is really going to be different for different riders. Type of conditions ridden in will also determine when you might want to clean the drive train. It is safe to say that if you ride a lot, like, all the time, then you’ll need to do this at least monthly. Maybe more if it’s raining, snowing, or if you venture off-road. A regular inspection of your bicycle will also help you determine when to clean things up. If a cleaning regimen is followed, you will be rewarded. No, not with fame, honor, or wealth. Who do you think you are, anyway? Wait! Do NOT answer that! Whew! I’ve got to watch what I’m asking for. I might just get it! No, you will be rewarded with a sense of accomplishment, ownership, and a long lived drive train. Hip-hip-hooray! Long live the Gunk Fighters!